Meet Chef John LoScalzo of LOKO Cuisine
Chef John LoScalzo has three requirements before he agrees to do a pop-up. “Good people. Good beer. Let me do my thing,” he says, chuckling. “And y’all [at Green Bench] got it.”
My husband and I met him on a sunny Tuesday afternoon and I realized as we were sitting down with our cold, citrusy APAs (American Pale Ales) that I’d never gotten to sit down with Chef. Our interactions had been limited to a “you good??” volleyed between us as he worked his magic in Webb’s City Cellar and I whizzed through, trying to stay out of his way. Or him trying to catch me as I scuttle past him, “you eat yet??” “No, not yet, Chef, but I will! I promise.” Cut to me sinking back into the office chair wondering why I hadn’t just taken the food then and then BANG the office door opens. Chef with a grin and a tray. “A heart attack and lunch,” I think. “Perfect.”
The opportunity to share a beer (and some snacks, of course) with Chef was quite the privilege. He’s a busy man. LOKO cuisine (named for the first two letters in his & his wife’s last names) is a side hustle. A labor of love. A pop-up. Chef is a full time teacher, it turns out. For 22 years he’s been a special education for Hillsborough County Schools. He focuses on teaching students with disabilities skills for life after high school. An amazing thing, really, that in his spare time he focuses his energy on hospitality. His M-O, in all things, seems to be to provide comfort. For anybody. Everybody. And he comes by it honestly.
Chef was raised by a Sicilian grandmother, a Southern mama, a maitre d’ for a father, and a whole slew of other restaurant folk in the family. All of that combined with a nomadic youth and you have a man with a penchant for flavor, a rolodex of ideas, and the leadership skills to set it up, knock it down, and all with the biggest most contagious smile on his face. I’ve worked a few of these events with him and I’ve never seen the man sweat or stress. Even more telling that I can say the same of his small and mighty team.
First timers at a LOKO Cuisine pop-up might wonder what all the fuss is about. Because upon arrival there is quite the fuss. Folks (many in LOKO t-shirts) start lining up as early as 45 minutes before service. The energy is that of a line to get into a concert venue and truth be told, it feels that way once service begins. The show is co-headlined between LoScalzo, his team, and the menu. Once the majority of the guests receive their meal, that’s when Chef begins to shine even brighter. His star rises. He navigates the space, checking in with his regulars, greeting his first timers, all the time requesting feedback. Naturally when met with glowing praise he follows up with, “you sure?”
It’s really something to be seen. Experienced. Don’t take my word for it. The next Eggs & Kegs Brunch Experience is Sunday, August 21st in Webb’s City Cellar. The theme? Bibimbap & Hip Hop, a concept he ran by our Co-Owner and Head Brewer Khris Johnson who stared Chef dead in the face and said, “Those are two of my favorite things. Let’s do it.” So we are. Tickets available at lokocuisine.com.